Abhishek Agarwal asked:
Gardens are the best places to unwind after a long day at work. Every one feels connected to nature while strolling past beautiful plants and the lovely flowers. Seeing fresh organic vegetables from your own farm, being served on the dining table can bring smile to any health-conscious person’s face. Gardening once practiced becomes a way of life.
However, as with life, gardening also involves lots of learning and hard work. Gardeners are normally very anxious people, always on the lookout for fresh tips and tricks to make their efforts more productive.
Following are some useful questions and answers that will come handy if gardening is your favorite hobby:
FAQ 1 – What’s the normal life span of the vegetable seeds?
You can make your vegetable seeds last up to even five years if you put them in a dry, airtight container having a silica gel packet to prevent any moisture.
This container should then be stored in a refrigerator.
With the help of this method you can store tomato, sunflower, broccoli, radish and cabbage seeds for almost five years and the pumpkin, carrots and peas seeds for up to almost three years. It is advisable to not to store parsnip, onion, spinach and the corn seeds for a period exceeding one year.
FAQ 2: What’s the ideal time of year to plant the bulbs?
This actually depends on the climate zone in which cultivation is being undertaken. The bulbs that normally flower in the spring season should be planted in the fall or late summer. In the same manner, the bulbs that flower in fall or summertime, should be planted during the springtime.
FAQ 3: What should I be adding to the soil so as to optimize the roses performance?
You can use potassium rich banana peels to help your roses bloom with flying colors. You must place these peels around the base of your rose plant, right under the soil. These peels will break down with time and mix into the soil to provide roses with good potassium feed.
FAQ 4: Can I remove the foliage of the unattractive plants in my garden? These plants have spring or fall bulbs that have ceased to bloom.
No, you should wait until the time the foliage turns yellow, since this is the only medium of feeding the bulbs. It may normally take several weeks for the color transition to happen. Therefore, you can make use of annuls or the ornamental grass to cover them up.
FAQ 5: I don’t like wearing gardening gloves and also hate the idea of struggling for hours to remove soil from the hands. What’s the way out?
You can make use of a thin sock, nylon stockings or an old sock to come to your rescue. Put a soap bar inside whatever you may choose from the above and keep this set besides your waterspout or the tap for quick access. While the soap forms the lather and cleans up, the socks or stockings do the job of scrubber to get rid of the stubborn dirt.
Entries Tagged 'Gardening' ↓
Gardening Tips FAQ – 5 Frequently Asked Gardening Questions Every Beginner Gardener Should Know!
December 27th, 2009 — Gardening
Preparing a Deer Tolerant Hummingbird Garden
December 18th, 2009 — Gardening
David Hobbs asked:
Plant the image of Bambi traipsing through a garden in the minds of most suburbanites and they’ll coo with pleasure at the thought of Mother Nature gracing them with her presence. Mention deer to a gardener, however, and you’ll often get a decidedly different reaction.
As cute as they may be, deer hold a place right alongside moles, rabbits and grubs in the minds of those who invest hours in planting a beautiful garden. The word deer might as well be an acronym for Destructive Entity Eating Rabidly. If you plant it, they will come. If you plant it with the intent of luring something benign, they’ll come even faster. What appeals to one critter often appeals to another which is the crux of the dilemma for those who wish to attract hummingbirds.
The good news is that there are solutions which will help you selectively lure one cute critter without the other. The only thing you have to decide is exactly how far away you’d like Bambi to stay.
If you’d be happy never to see a deer in your hummingbird garden again, the best insurance is a fence. Anything lower than 8 feet tall may act as a deterrent but wont guarantee a motivated deer won’t hop over. Slat fences will certainly do the trick if you don’t mind a very obvious boundary. Alternatively, polypropylene mesh fences blend into the background and cost substantially less.
Other options to deter deer include predator or even human urine deposited around the perimeter of your garden. The drawback to this method is the need for constant (weekly) reapplication. The bigger your garden, the less convenient this option becomes.
Some gardeners report that human hair contained in nylon stockings and strategically placed around the garden has been reported to deter deer. Likewise, heavily scented soaps either sliced in slivers or hung still in the box near plants you want to protect reportedly do a good job. Recommended brands include Irish Spring, Zest and Dial. Finally, dryer sheets such as Bounce smell unpleasant to deer. The concept derives from a deer’s desire to remain as unremarkable as possible to avoid attracting predators so they avoid getting close to heavy scents which may rub off and expose them.
If keeping deer entirely at bay isn’t your objective, there are some methods that will still give you a chance at seeing them at the edges of your garden without having to sacrifice hummingbird attracting plants to their insatiable appetites. Using any of the scented methods above in moderation but only near plants you want to protect is one option.
Consider placing more desirable plants at the perimeter of your garden and keep your hummingbird flowers closer in to your home. Some plants for which deer have a high preference include, Indian Hawthorn, English Ivy, Hosta and Hydrangea.
Some sprays such as hot pepper applied to the leaves of plants you are trying to protect have also been shown to be effective. Remember, though, to avoid spraying the flowers on your hummingbird friendly plants or you’ll deter the very creature you are trying to attract.
Finally, choose deer-tolerant flowers which hummingbirds enjoy but deer only dine on when stressed by loss of habitat or starvation. There are a few varieties that still appeal to hummingbirds but which represent less of an invitation to a deer’s remarkably undiscerning palate listed below.
Perennials
Bee Balm
Cardinal Flower
Dahlia
Annuals
Flowering Tobacco
Vines
Cardinal Climber
Ultimately, remember that deer-tolerant is the same as water-resistant. It isn’t a guarantee. When stressed, starving, desperate or diseased, deer can and will eat just about any non-poisonous plant to get by. If you want the ultimate protection against them, the answer to your prayers was mentioned early on. Invest in a fence.
Some Favorite Garden Bulbs
October 23rd, 2009 — Gardening
Lee Dobbins asked:
Bulbs are a great addition to any garden as they will provide color year after year and can even provide additional flowers to be divided and planted in another part of the garden. Unlike, annuals, bulb flowers do not need to be planted each year.
Bulbs are hardy in nature and there is a color, shape or size that should suit any gardening need. Here’s some favorite garden bulbs and their planting needs.
Crocus Crocus bulbs are often the fist blooms we see in early spring or at the end of winter. Their tubular shaped flowers range in size from 1½” to 3″ long. Crocuses are planting in almost every garden and have a wide range of colors to suite any taste. Other types of crocus, such as the saffron crocus, bloom instead in the fall, and the flowers can rise from the bare ground weeks, or even only days, after the bulbs are planted. Crocus bulbs should be planted in the fall. Plant the bulbs 2 to 3 inches deep and space 3 or 4 inches apart. Crocuses require well drained soil, regular watering and will grow in full sun or partial shade.
Dahlia Dahlias have a long bloom time from summer through fall and like many other bulbs come in a large variety of colors, sizes and shapes. These flowers are so diverse that there are varieties with flower sizes ranging from 2 to 12 inches and from under a foot to 7 feet tall! Plant dahlias in spring after threat of frost has passed. Plant between 4 and 6 inches deep with spacing of 1 foot for short varieties and 5 feet for the tall variety’s. Dahlias like full sun unless you are planting them in a very hot climate where they might do well with a little shade. As with most flowers, make sure these are watered regularly.
Galanthus Nivalis This plant is more commonly called the snowdrop and is one of the first plants to bloom after winter. They are short plants about 6 inches tall and have two bell shaped flowers. They thrive in colder climates. Plant snowdrops in fall, dig down 3 to 4 inches and plant 3 inches apart. These flowers like full sun but will tolerate partial shade. Water regularly during the growing cycle.
Daffodil The daffodil may be the most easily recognizable of all bulb plants, and it rewards its gardener with a generous display of beautiful blooms. Besides the traditional white and yellow varieties, daffodils also come in shades of orange, apricot, pink and cream. Daffodil bulbs should be planted twice as deep as they are tall, and they should be spaced between six and eight inches apart. Daffodils benefit from full sun and regular watering during their growth and bloom periods.
Tulip Tulips are a favorite flower around the world and one of the most easy to recognize. These are among the most hybridized of all flowers, with hybrids available in a staggering array of shapes, sizes, colors and textures. Tulips bloom from mid spring to late spring with different varieties having different bloom times. Tulips should be planted in fall and each bulb should be planted about 3 times deeper than the size of the bulb.A 2″ wide bulb would be planted 6″ deep. It is important to leave sufficient space between the planted bulbs as well, from four to eight inches depending on the size of the bulb. Gladiolus Gladiolas are among the most popular of all bulb plants, and their distinctive sword shaped leaves and funnel shaped flowers are instantly recognizable to gardeners and non gardeners alike. Gladiolas are best planted in the spring, but only after the soil has warmed. Gladiolas do best in full sunlight and they should be watered regularly during their blooming and growth phase. In much of the country, gladiola bulbs can be left in the ground over the winter months, but many gardeners choose to dig them up and store them during the winter. If you decide to take this approach, it is best to dig them after the leaves have turned yellow. The bulbs should be placed in a single layer and stored in a cool, dry and dark place to dry for two or three weeks. After the bulbs have dried sufficiently they should be stored in nylon stockings or onion sacks and kept in a cool and well ventilated place.
Hemerocallis Hemerocallis is the scientific name for the daylily, and it is one of the most well known types of bulb plants on the market. Daylily hybrids can grow as tall as six feet and bloom in the spring and summer months. The daylily produces flowers ranging in size from three to eight inches, and they are available in a wide variety of colors. The daylily is actually a tuberous root variety of bulb, and they are best planted during fall or early spring. Daylilies should be planted between ½ inch and 1 inch deep and space between 2 to 2½ inches apart in the garden. As with other varieties of bulbs, it is important to water daylilies on a regular basis during their growing season.
Hyacinths (Dutch Hyacinth) The Dutch hyacinth is one of the most instantly recognizable, and most popular, of all the varieties of bulb plants. The Dutch hyacinth blooms in the spring and features the well known foot high spires with their small bell shaped and very fragrant flowers. Hyacinths come in a wide varieties of colors, including red, pink, buff, white, blue and purple. The Dutch hyacinth grows best in colder areas, and it can last from year to year. In these cold water climates, the hyacinth is best planted in September of October. It is best to plant hyacinth bulbs four to five inches deep, and to space them from four to five inches apart as well. Hyacinths grow best in full sunlight, and they benefit from regular watering, especially during their blooming and growth periods.
Iris The most frequently seen variety of irises are the bearded varieties. Bearded irises are striking plants, and they appear in a dazzling array of colors and combinations of colors. Irises appear in a variety of sizes as well, with very small varieties and very large ones as well. Irises should be planted in July or August in cold climates and in September or October in warmer areas. Irises are actually rhizomes, and they should be spaced from one to two feet apart, with the tops placed right below the surface of the soil. Irises grow best in full sunlight or light shade, and they benefit from a regular watering schedule during their growing season.
Essential Tips on How to Build a Pond
October 22nd, 2009 — Gardening
Georg Rosenbrock asked:
I found that prevention is better than cure! A garden pond must be constructed correctly to prevent a load of problems later on. This collection of tips covers pond construction, some ideas to copy nature, pump selection and even something on a bog garden.
These ten tips on how to build a pond have been acquired through experience. I have had my fair share of fixing leaking ponds. During these difficult times I have found some excellent solutions on how to build a pond that copies nature and which is durable.
1) Dig the pond hole slightly larger than the required final size. Avoid steep sides else all your lining materials will slide down to the bottom. This is an allowance for all the layers of material that will be placed in the hole. Line the hole with underlay or a thin layer of sand before you place the pond liner. This will prevent any sharp stones or roots from penetrating the liner and causing a leak.
2) Make indentations in the bottom of the garden pond hole where plants will be planted. Put down the underlay and pond liner. Place the plant pots in the preformed indentations and line the pond with a layer of washed river sand (sharp sand). Finally place the pebbles on top of the sand. Although your plants are still in pots, it will appear as if they are growing through the pebbles.
3) Make a ledge around the garden pond approximately 3 inches (75 mm) below the final water level. Build your rock edging on this ledge and backfill with soil. It will appear as if the rocks form a natural barrier keeping the water in the pond.
4) A sandy beach which gradually slopes into the water provides an excellent area for wildlife to get safe access to the water. Also make sure that there is a clear view for the birds from this beach. They will not feel threatened and will stay longer and possibly have a bath as well!
5) A durable garden pond is created by plastering the liner with a 25 to 35 mm layer of mortar. Mix 1 part cement with 2 parts river sand and one part building sand add a waterproofing agent. Use only enough water to make the mixture workable. Line the pond in one go. If you stop and start again you will have a crack in the pond.
6) Natural rock and mortar have different temperature expansion rates. This means that with time, cracks will appear between any rocks built into the edge of the pond and the mortar lining. Your pond will eventually leak. This is how to build a garden pond using a natural rock finish on the rim:
a) Line the pond with mortar.
b) Place a thick layer of mortar on the rim where the rocks will be placed.
c) Place a layer of plastic cling wrap on top of the mortar.
d) Firmly push each rock into its position on top of the cling wrap. The mortar will take the shape of the rocks.
e) Remove the rocks and cling wrap after the mortar has dried. Temporally store the rocks so that you will be able to position them back in exactly the same position later.
f) Apply silicone sealer to the mortar and “glue” the rocks into their correct positions. The seal will not be visible. Ensure that you use a non-toxic sealant or else your fish will surely die. When dry, the joint will be permanently sealed! Please wait until the silicone has completely dried before filling the pond with water. This procedure requires patience, but is well worth the effort. Doing it right at the start will save you time and expenses later – Guaranteed!!
7) Use the correct size pump if you are going to filter the water and or have a fountain. Take the loss of head in the filter into account when choosing your pump. Also choose a pump one size larger than you think you will need. It is easy to throttle the flow back a bit if it is too much, but you cannot increase the flow if it is to slow!! Do not reduce the size of the pipes. Use the same diameter pipes as the pump inlet and outlet. Rather increase these diameters to reduce the friction in the pipes. High friction will reduce your water flow. Protect your pump by placing a nylon stocking (ladies pantyhose) over the pump suction. This will prevent dirt entering the pump and prolong your pump life. Replace the stocking often.
Hide your pump behind something in the pond. Pumps are unsightly and detract from the natural look and feel of a garden pond. Similarly hide the source of your water outlet. Let the water bubble out from beneath a few rocks or pebbles, or use large leaves to conceal the end of the pipe.
9) Choose different sizes of pebbles to line your pond. In nature pebble sizes differ. Three different sizes will suffice. Try and copy nature by putting a few larger rocks here and there. Having a rock protruding out of the water will also provide an ideal landing place for birds. Just don’t over do it. Nature is the best teacher on how to build a pond.
10) Keep your pond healthy by replacing some of the water every week. An excellent idea is to build a bog garden at the pond overflow. When you put fresh water into the pond, the overflow will keep the bog wet. A bog garden is made by digging a hole and lining it with pond liner. Push a few holes in the bottom of the lining with a garden fork. Fill the hole with special bog garden soil.
Now that you have a basic idea on how to build a pond, why don’t you give your garden a face lift?
Gardening With Bulbs
September 16th, 2009 — Gardening
J. Brian Keith asked:
The more you understand about any subject, the more interesting it becomes. As you read this article you’ll find that the subject of home gardening is certainly no exception.
Gardening with bulbs has many advantages for the gardener. For one thing, most bulb plants are inexpensive, and bulbs are durable out of the ground and hardy in the ground.
Shopping for the right bulbs is also easy; simply choosing firm, healthy looking bulbs, and avoiding those that are cracked, dry or soft is a good way to choose the best bulbs for your garden.
There are so many types of bulbs, however, that it can be difficult to find the right ones for your garden. This article presents a brief overview of some of the most popular flower bulbs.
Gladiolus
Gladiolas are among the most popular of all bulb plants, and their distinctive sword shaped leaves and funnel shaped flowers are instantly recognizable to gardeners and non gardeners alike.
This striking appearance has made gladiolas a favorite bulb with many gardeners, and they make a fine centerpiece to any garden due to their large size and attractive appearance. The large summer flowering gladiolas can range in height from three feet to a huge six feet, and their variety of colors makes them great for any garden.
So far, we’ve uncovered some interesting facts about home gardening. You may decide that the following information is even more interesting.
Gladiolas are best planted in the spring, but only after the soil has warmed. Gladiolas typically bloom between 65 and 100 days after planting. Many gardeners plant new gladiola bulbs at one or two week intervals over a four to six week period in order to enjoy continuous blooms.
Each gladiola bulb should be planted four times as deep as the bulb is wide, for instance a one inch wide bulb would be planted four inches deep. The spacing of gladiolas should be between four to six inches.
Gladiolas do best in full sunlight and they should be watered regularly during their blooming and growth phase. In much of the country, gladiola bulbs can be left in the ground over the winter months, but many gardeners choose to dig them up and store them during the winter. If you decide to take this approach, it is best to dig them after the leaves have turned yellow.
The bulbs should be placed in a single layer and stored in a cool, dry and dark place to dry for two or three weeks. After the bulbs have dried sufficiently they should be stored in nylon stockings or onion sacks and kept in a cool and well ventilated place.
Hemerocallis
Hemerocallis is the scientific name for the daylily, and it is one of the most well known types of bulb plants on the market.
Gardeners love the hardy and trouble free nature of the daylily, and their arching and sword shaped leaves provide a striking addition to any garden.
Daylily hybrids can grow as tall as six feet and bloom in the spring and summer months. The daylily produces flowers ranging in size from three to eight inches, and they are available in a wide variety of colors.
The daylily gets its name from the fact that each of its flowers lasts only a single day, but its buds open on successive days, and this enhances the beauty of the plant.
The daylily is actually a tuberous root variety of bulb, and they are best planted during fall or early spring. Daylilies should be planted between ½ inch and 1 inch deep and space between 2 to 2½ inches apart in the garden. As with other varieties of bulbs, it is important to water daylilies on a regular basis during their growing season.
This article’s coverage of the information is as complete as it can be today. But you should always leave open the possibility that future research could uncover new facts.
Large Container Water Gardening
August 6th, 2009 — Gardening
Mary Hanna asked:
To start a water garden there are a few things that are essential. You will need a container that will hold enough water to sustain your plants and maybe some fish and at least six hours of sun each day.
Not so long ago water gardening was restricted to ponds or large bodies of water. Even if you live in an apartment you are able to have and enjoy a water garden. Water gardening is different from your normal gardens. They have different needs but as long as you cater to these needs you will be surprised at some of the places you can have a water garden.
To start a water garden you will need a large container that will hold 15 to 20 gallons of water. You must also know how deep each plant needs to sit in the water. Find out from your local nursery center how deep each plant needs to be placed in your container. You can also find this information online.
Be very careful of filling your container with tap water. Many communities use chemicals in the water system to make it potable. If there is high chlorine count in the water you use, it will probably kill your plants. If you are going to use tap water, fill the container two days before you place any plants in it so that the chlorine can burn off.
There are three basic kinds of plants for water gardening. There are plants that only grow above the water line while others grow beneath the surface of the water. And then there plants that are called “floaters” because they seem to float on the surface. You will need to know the care and needs of the plants before you will know which varieties to plant. It will also depend on the size of your container.
Consider some fish or snails for your water garden. A small container will accommodate guppies because they will tolerate various temperatures. The benefit of guppies is that they eat mosquitoes who will be tempted by the water. If you are using a large container buy one or two goldfish. Place some snails in your container garden to eat the decaying plant matter and fish waste. They are kind of like the vacuum cleaner of the water garden.
The snails will not be sufficient to keep your garden clean and fresh. In order to have a successful water garden you must have some kind of fresh water supply. You must plan on how often and how easily the water garden can be cleaned and stocked with fresh water.
Buy a small submersible pump to keep the water moving and avoid stagnation. Place the pump in a nylon stocking before putting it in the water garden. The nylon will keep small particles from entering the pump and befouling it. This is a crucial step. If you have to fish out the pump to clean it out, it will foul the water. You may want to buy a sprouting ornament and place it on the rime of the container. Attach it to the pump with rubber tubing. This will add depth and texture to your water garden.
If you follow these tips for your water garden you will have a successful and pretty project. For tips and techniques for small container water gardening see my article with that name.
Happy Gardening!
Copyright © Mary Hanna, All Rights Reserved.
This article may be distributed freely on your website and in your ezines, as long as this entire article, copyright notice, links and the resource box are unchanged.
Lady Bugs are your #1 Natural Pest Control
July 2nd, 2009 — Gardening
james ellison asked:
First, this bug has many names. Some of it’s names are:
lady bugs
ladybugs
lady beetle
asiatic lady beetle
Asian Lady Beetle
Asian Lady Bugs
Multicolored Asian Lady Beetle
The Ladybird Beetle is the correct name for a Lady bug and are not bugs but are beetles. Worldwide there are nearly 5,000 different kinds of ladybugs of which 400 are found in North America. The Convergent Lady Beetle is the most common beneficial species of Ladybird beetle in North America.
The life cycle of all Lady Bugs are mainly the same. The eggs are laid in the spring. When they hatch the larvae will feed for a couple of weeks and then pupate into adults. During the winter they will hibernate or will have died in the fall. Springtime they awake to feed and lay more eggs again.
As a form of biological pest control Lady Bugs are widely used and are the best known. Besides eating their favorite food aphids they also eat mites, scales, whitefly, mealybugs and most other soft insects. They are known to eat cabbage moths, bollworms, tomato hornworms and broccoli worms. These bugs will eat up to 1,000 aphids in it’s lifetime in both their larvae and adult stages.
The most common complaint against the Lady Bug is that when they are released they will fly off and let the aphids have their feast with your roses and tomato plants. But really only a part of your release will venture off, the rest will eat all the aphids they can find and then maybe fly off.
-There are a couple of tricks you can do to keep your Ladybugs-
1. Only release the ladybugs in the evening since they are not known to fly at night when it is cooler.
2. Take a can of soda and mix it with equal amounts of water and spray on the Lady Bugs just before you release them. The sugar will make the wings sticky for just a couple days so they will hang around at least for awhile and eat the pests. Since Lady Beetles claim certain areas home they will stay in your yard and make it their home and the females will start laying eggs in and around your garden.
-What about Lady Beetles in the house-
We are glad to have these beetles hang around and control the pests just like mother nature intended.If they stay at your place over winter they will look for a nice cozy place to stay and that is where your home comes into the picture.
These bugs don’t seem to have any logic to picking a house they just have found yours and they like it there. In the yard and garden they were welcome guests, in your home not so welcome. What we want to do is ask the lady bugs to leave. They don’t speak our language.
-So a few suggestions to try-
1. Get out your vacuum cleaner and find the hose attachment.
2. Get a nylon stocking and place it inside the hose with the top of the stocking overlapping the end of the hose and place the hose attachment end nozzle on this to keep the stocking on.
3. Start the vacuum and get the bugs cleaned up. This will keep the bugs alive and then you can take them outside and release in another area away from your home. Refrigerate for next spring or give them to a friend with a green house.
The ladybugs may be a problem outside the house also, help them relocate by:
1. Spray water at them with the garden hose.
2. Use your leaf blower and blow them away.
3. Upset the lady bugs and eventually they will move on to another location.
Needless to say they are a very beneficial bug, but for some people bugs are not their favorite. They can be helpful and at the same time create a problem. What we need to do is learn to live with our tiny friends and make sure they stay around.